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Image 1 for PODCAST: PLB’s ed chats youth, death, surf, and the price of fish on the “This Ocean Life” out of Santa Cruz, CA

PLB editor JB, a schoolboy at Woolgoolga Main with a tracker (clear perspex Dork fin!), torn boardshorts (good for another year), and Greenough bowl hairdo (courtesy of mum).

Image 2 for PODCAST: PLB’s ed chats youth, death, surf, and the price of fish on the “This Ocean Life” out of Santa Cruz, CA

First day out of hospital in Hawaii – with wife Sharon, the PLB art director and driving wheel. Surf shot is at Noosa First Point.

PODCAST: PLB’s ed chats youth, death, surf, and the price of fish on the “This Ocean Life” out of Santa Cruz, CA

18 December 18


You may have caught this already on Facebook, you may not be the slightest bit interested, but if you’re curious to have a listen, here's This Ocean Life's Josh Pederson's overview:

"In Episode 34 we speak with John Brasen, life-long Australian surfer and 20-year editor of Pacific Longboarder magazine.

"John shares with us his harrowing tale of being resuscitated at Sunset Beach in 2018, early stories of growing up on the NSW North Coast, and how he suddenly found himself as the editor of a legendary surfing mag.

"We hear some great perspective on longboarding and running a mag, with a fun look at where longboarding has moved (and returned) since the 1960s. John talks about early surf trips to Java, Sumatra, Mentawais in the ’70s and ’80s as well as his own evolution in surfing and maintaining heavy stoke in the water."

 LISTEN TO IT HERE

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