13 October 18
“It has been a very special time for me. Coming off of a decade-long run on the street, not surfing at all, and making it out of a life few make it out of, still blows my mind. I've been truly blessed to be given a second chance. Hopefully my story can show others that it’s never too late, and anything is possible.
“Me and Ryan Cannon of LogRap spent one weekend cruising the coast searching for waves. We ended up getting some killer SanO in, and scoring a killer sesh at the BU.” - Steve Buchan