23 November 22
Is this a dream? Empty Malibu with bugger-all cars and even less surfers, San Onofre shot from the water way before the power station, overhead uncrowded Ventura and Rincon . . .
This bootleg of some rare surfing footage from California was shot in solid swell in 1947 – just two years after the end of WW11.
This is some truly beautiful no-fuss surfing on big, flat, fin-less timber surfboards – these guys are getting it done. And at high speed!
And they’re all knee paddlers.
This is the best surfing we’ve seen from California in the pre-fin era. And the best surf.
The music is Wasting my Young Years by London Grammer. Doesn’t look like anyone is wasting their young years here though . . . fair guess some would be returning servicemen and servicewomen, and they’re all having a ball.
We have no idea of the source of the original footage, am guessing this is bootlegged from somewhere.
It goes for five minutes – TAKE THE TRIP HERE