9 November 23
12 entertaining minutes from Matt Chojnacki – filmed and edited by Col Elmore.
I was surfing Malibu in the evening and Waimea Bay the next morning . . . I'm still pinching myself!
This was a bucket list surf trip that I am so grateful to have made happen.
I’d been on the road for two months as a commentator for the WSL, starting at the Byron Surf Fest and then onto the WSL stops at Bells Beach, El Salvador and Malibu, and finishing with the Hotdogger Championships on October 14.
My flight home to Sydney had an issue that night... and knowing a swell was about to hit Hawaii, I rerouted my flight and connected with Keoki Saguibo who said it's on! I didn't bring boards as I had left some there earlier in the season with my friends John Wade and Todd Pinder.
Surfing Waimea and Sunset Beach has been a right of passage for any surfer worth their salt over the past 60 years, let alone a professional surfer. I surfed Manhattan Beach, Rincon, Malibu and Hawaii all within 4 days, as a surfer with immense respect for history, these places are so pivotal in many aspects of our surfing culture, it felt like a very purposeful journey and I'm stoked to have experienced it.
Col Elmore came along to document the 72 hours strike mission, it was the perfect trip to re-commence my Waxhead Diaries video series.
For more Col Elmore: https://www.colelmore.com/